Looking back on the trip Lorca´s Granada on 19th & 20th of March 2025
By Sonia Dams
On Wednesday we started our trip in Fuente Vaqueros, at the place where it all started for Lorca on the 5th of June 1898. His birthplace is transformed into El Museo Casa Natal Federico Garcia Lorca in 1986. A guide led us through the authentically furnished living room, kitchen and bedrooms. The large granary upstairs, which was transformed into an exhibition space, houses many artefacts from Federico’s creative life, such as drawings, manuscripts and a great variety of puppets, mainly used in performances for children with his theatre group La Barraca.
At the next stop the circle of his too short life was immediately completed with a visit to Barranco Viznar, the place where Federico was executed together with three other men In this lonely place we experienced a desolation that Lorca must have felt too when he was shot dead in cold blood here on the 18th of August 1936. What a big contrast between the warmth and security of his birthplace and the coldness of this lonely place. Helen read a haunting text about Lorca’s Granada that he had always loved and that had betrayed and murdered him so cowardly. Although the excavations continue and bodies are still being found, there is little hope of finding Federico’s here.
Afterwards the bus took us to the Hotel Turia where we had a few hours to spend on our own.
At 17.30 h we were expected at the Art Gallery Ojos del Barroco where we were given a very interesting guided tour. In Lorca’s footsteps, we then went to the cellars of Venta el Gallo (carved into the hills) in the gypsy quarter Sacromonte. There we enjoyed a delicious dinner and a fantastic flamenco show with passionate dance and music, often based on lyrics of the poet. To conclude our first day, we were given information about the origin of this gypsy quarter against the backdrop of the beautifully illuminated Alhambra.
After an extensive breakfast, we visited the house of Manuel de Falla, a famous composer and good friend of Lorca. Together they shared a passion for flamenco and ‘el cante jondo’ (the deep music). In this small house (un carmen de Granada), with a unique view of the city, they regularly met with several other artists, including Picasso. Many creative ideas were developed here, which were often applied in the nearby theatre, which was unfortunately closed due to unannounced renovation work. After a short visit to an exhibition dedicated to de Falla, we enjoyed a delicious cup of coffee or tea in the Palacio Alhambra with the same magnificent view of the city that Lorca must have enjoyed.
Then Alain, our guide, took us on a walk with headphones through the Granada of Lorca. He introduced us to places and events that had been very important to the poet. In the house of Mariana Pineda we learned more about this heroine who was murdered 100 years before Lorca for the same reasons and whom he greatly admired. He wrote the play Mariana Pineda about her.
We were also able to take a look at the house (now a hotel) where Lorca spent his last days with his friends, the Rosales family. He thought he was safe there, but was arrested anyway. How this could happen, despite the great protection he enjoyed and his many connections, remains a well-kept secret. But Lorca lives on, not only in his works, but also in the music of artists who were inspired by his poetry. Be amazed by the album Omega by Enrique Morente with music by Leonard Cohen and lyrics by Lorca.
After saying goodbye to our guide at the statue of Mariana, we ended our trip with a nice lunch at Albahaca.
We have seen a lot, but realize that there is still so much more to discover about Lorca. A tip for a next trip?
Video Helen Sijsling
Lorca’s Grave
